Petit Fours: The Little Cakes Named for a Cooling Oven

Petit fours from the Gambino's Petit Fours Sampler

Petit four is French for "small oven." It is a strange name for a cake, when you stop to think about it, and anyone who has been to a bridal shower in the Crescent City has likely eaten a few without once asking why. The answer is a good one. It goes back to a French baker's oven going cold, and it ends on a New Orleans shower table.

An oven going cold

Picture a French bakery in the 1800s. There were no modern stoves, only a great brick or stone oven, fired as hot as it would go for the day's bread. The French called that roaring oven the grand four, the big oven. Once the bread came out and the fire was put out, the oven began its long, slow cool, and the bakers put that leftover heat to work on tiny cakes and sweets. The cooling oven had a name of its own: the petit four.

The word is younger than you might guess. The French dictionary Le Robert dates it to 1807. In The Physiology of Taste, published at the end of 1825, the French lawyer and food writer Brillat-Savarin was still calling the baking of little cakes a fairly new art. And Carême, the French chef who cooked for the royalty of Europe and is often called the founder of French gastronomy, championed the little cakes and gave his own account of the name: they were baked in a slow oven, once the heat had dropped after the large desserts were done. Whether the big oven had just baked bread or grand desserts, the little cakes came after. Small oven, small cakes.

One name, a whole family

Over time the name stretched to cover a whole family of sweets. The French sort them by kind: petits fours secs, the dry ones, meaning crisp biscuits, meringues and macarons; petits fours frais, the fresh ones, little tarts and cakes made with perishable things like whipped cream; and petits fours glacés, the glazed ones, tiny sponge or pound cakes coated all over in fondant, icing or chocolate. There is even a savory branch, the salés, served with cocktails (though nobody has ever mistaken one for dessert). In the grander restaurants of France they still arrive at the end of the meal, alongside the coffee.

When the word crossed into English, by 1875 according to Merriam-Webster, it settled on the glazed kind. Ask an American dictionary today and you get the glacé: a small cake cut from pound or sponge cake and frosted. In England they are also known as fancies.

A place on the shower table

Here in New Orleans, the little glazed cake found its occasion. Writing in New Orleans Magazine in 2021, Kelly Massicot called petits fours the perfect bridal shower treat, and wrote about how they made their way onto the dessert tables at bridal showers and wedding receptions. She also told of a shower where a guest from Maryland had never heard of them, while another guest simply called them a southern thing. Is it any wonder? A cake this small and this pretty was made for an afternoon of toasts, gifts and family, where nobody wants to stop and cut a slice.

At Gambino's we make the glazed kind, and our almond ones are cut from our almond wedding cake. The Petit Fours Sampler is a box of 48: 24 almond, 12 butter cake and 12 devil's food, each covered in poured fondant icing and topped with buttercream.

Still named for a cooling oven

Two centuries on, no baker waits for a brick oven to cool before making a tray of little cakes. The ovens have dials now, and the bread no longer sets the schedule. The name stayed anyway. Every time a tray goes around a New Orleans shower, a French baker's thrift goes around with it, a small tradition carried from one family table to the next.

Planning a shower or a reception of your own? Order the Petit Fours Sampler.

Sources: Alan Davidson, "Petit Four," The Oxford Companion to Food (2014), citing Le Robert; Darra Goldstein, ed., "Mignardise," The Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets (2015); Kelly Massicot, "Small Confections," New Orleans Magazine (2021); "Petit four," Merriam-Webster Dictionary; "Marie-Antoine Carême," Encyclopaedia Britannica; "Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin" and "Petit four," Wikipedia.